More Than Pearls

Pearl Types Compared

Four types account for almost the entire market. Knowing which is which explains most of the price difference you see.

Almost every pearl sold today is cultured, and cultured pearls fall into four commercial families. They differ by the mollusc that grew them, the water they grew in, and how long they were left to develop.

FreshwaterAkoyaTahitianSouth Sea
MolluscFreshwater musselPinctada fucataPinctada margaritiferaPinctada maxima
WaterFreshSaltSaltSalt
Size5–12 mm6–9 mm8–16 mm9–20 mm
ShapeRound to baroqueVery roundRound to baroqueRound to baroque
NacreThick, often solidThin (0.3–0.5 mm)ThickVery thick
LustreSoft to goodSharp, mirror-likeDeep, metallicSoft, satiny
PriceEntryMid–highHighHighest
Pearl varieties

Freshwater Pearls

The accessible entry point — thick nacre, wide colour range, excellent value.

Akoya strand

Akoya Pearls

The classic white strand. Unmatched lustre, but thin nacre demands care.

Dark pearls

Tahitian Pearls

Naturally dark, with green, aubergine and peacock overtones.

EM

Elena Marchetti

Jewellery Editor · Writes on gemstones and fine jewellery, with a particular interest in pearls and how buyers can judge quality without a loupe.