How to tell real from imitation, what actually drives the price of a strand, which pearl type suits which piece, and how to keep pearls looking right for decades.
Start here
Pearl pricing looks opaque from the outside, but it comes down to a small number of judgeable qualities. Learn these and you can assess a strand yourself.
The single most important quality. Good lustre shows sharp, bright reflections; poor lustre looks chalky and flat, whatever the size.
Freshwater, Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls occupy different price brackets before quality is even considered.
Pearls are soft and porous. Perfume, hairspray and ultrasonic cleaners cause permanent, irreversible damage.
Pearl types
Nearly every pearl on the market today is one of these four. They differ in origin, size range, colour and price.
| Type | Origin | Typical size | Colours | Price bracket |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Freshwater | China, mussels | 5–12 mm | White, pink, lavender, peach | Entry |
| Akoya | Japan, China | 6–9 mm | White, cream, rose overtone | Mid to high |
| Tahitian | French Polynesia | 8–16 mm | Grey, green, aubergine, peacock | High |
| South Sea | Australia, Indonesia, Philippines | 9–20 mm | White, silver, golden | Highest |
Buying well
Imitation pearls — glass or plastic beads coated in a pearlescent lacquer — are legal to sell and perfectly fine when described honestly. The problem is when they are not.
Questions
The most reliable simple test is the tooth test: rub the pearl gently against the edge of your tooth. A real pearl feels slightly gritty because of its layered nacre surface; an imitation feels perfectly smooth. Real pearls are also cool to the touch initially, are rarely perfectly identical to one another, and have visible variation in lustre. See our buying guide for the full checks.
Freshwater pearls are cultured in mussels in fresh water, mostly in China, and are usually solid nacre, widely available and affordable. Akoya pearls are cultured in saltwater oysters, mainly in Japan, and are prized for their sharp mirror-like lustre and near-perfect roundness. Akoya are typically more expensive for a comparable size. Compare them on our pearl types page.
Yes. A cultured pearl is grown by a live mollusc in exactly the same way as a natural one; the difference is that the irritant is deliberately inserted rather than arriving by chance. Almost every pearl sold today is cultured — genuinely natural pearls are rare and command auction prices. Cultured does not mean fake; imitation is a separate category entirely.
A good freshwater strand starts around £80–£200. Akoya strands typically run £400–£2,000 depending on size and quality. South Sea and Tahitian pearls start higher again. Size, lustre, surface cleanliness and matching drive the price far more than the name on the box.
Store pearls flat, separately from harder gemstones that can scratch them, in a soft pouch or a lined box. Never seal them in an airtight container — pearls contain trace moisture and can dry out and crack. Full guidance is on our pearl care page.
Send us a description or a question about a piece you are considering and we will tell you what to check.
