Length changes the character of a strand entirely — and knotting decides whether you lose it.
| Name | Length | Sits | Works with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Collar | 30–33 cm | Tight at the throat | Open necklines, off-shoulder |
| Choker | 35–41 cm | Base of the neck | Almost everything — the versatile default |
| Princess | 43–48 cm | At or just below the collarbone | Crew and boat necks |
| Matinee | 50–60 cm | Top of the bust | Business and daywear |
| Opera | 70–90 cm | Below the bust | Formal wear; can be doubled |
| Rope | Over 100 cm | Long, or knotted | Dramatic styling, multiple wraps |
Princess length is the most commonly bought and suits the widest range of necklines. If you are buying one strand and only one, buy that.
A properly made strand has a small silk knot between every pearl. This serves two purposes: it stops the pearls rubbing against one another and abrading their nacre, and it means that if the thread breaks you lose one pearl rather than all of them.
Unknotted strands are cheaper to produce and are a reasonable choice only on inexpensive freshwater pieces. On anything of value, knotting is not optional.
Silk stretches and absorbs body oils. A strand worn weekly should be restrung every two to three years, or immediately if you notice the thread darkening or gaps opening between pearls. It is inexpensive and far cheaper than losing pearls.
The clasp is the most common point of failure and the easiest thing to check. Look for a secure fishhook or box clasp with a safety catch on valuable strands. Spring rings are fine on light pieces but wear out. A clasp should feel positive when it closes — any looseness or play means it will eventually open unprompted.
Uniform strands use pearls of near-identical size throughout and are the modern standard. Graduated strands increase in size toward the centre, a traditional style that makes efficient use of mixed sizes and is often better value for the same quality of pearl.