How to Wear Pearls Today | Modern Styling

Pearls carry an association with a particular kind of mid-century formality that puts people off. That association is entirely about context — the same strand reads as either dated or contemporary depending on what it is worn with.

What makes pearls look modern

Pair down, not up. Pearls with a white shirt, a crew-neck jumper or a plain t-shirt look current. Pearls with a twinset look like a costume.
Single pearls over full strands for everyday wear. One pearl on a fine chain is quietly elegant and reads as jewellery, not heirloom.
Baroque shapes. Irregular pearls look contemporary in a way perfect rounds do not, and cost far less.
Layer with metal chains. A pearl strand layered with a plain gold or silver chain of a different length breaks the formality instantly.
Mix your metals. The rule against mixing gold and silver has been dead for years; pearls sit happily with both.

Matching length to neckline

Neckline	Best length
Crew neck	Princess, or long enough to sit clear of the fabric
V-neck	Princess or a pendant following the V
Open collar shirt	Choker or a short pendant
Boat neck	Collar or choker
Strapless	Collar, choker or a doubled opera strand
High neck	Matinee or opera, worn over the fabric

Colour

White and cream pearls suit almost everything. Tahitian greys and greens work particularly well with navy, charcoal and black, and read as considerably more modern than white. Golden South Sea pearls sit beautifully against warm autumn tones and brown.

Day to evening

The most practical piece anyone can own is a pair of good pearl studs and a single-pearl pendant. Together they cover an ordinary working day and a formal evening without a change, which is more than can be said for most jewellery at the price.

Elena Marchetti

Jewellery Editor · Writes on gemstones and fine jewellery, with a particular interest in pearls and how buyers can judge quality without a loupe.